by Anjori Grover Vasesi
04-November-2019 | 8 mins read
Known for its unusual-yet-celebratory colour pairings, clean cuts, sharp tailoring techniques and exaggerated silhouettes, the Danish capital has come to be known as a noteworthy creative location in line with the Big 4 – namely New York, London, Milan and Paris.
Established as the largest fashion event in the Nordic region, CPHFW Spring/Summer 2020 witnessed the comeback of several Danish brands apart from debuting some fresh, strong talent. The three days of Scandinavian and Nordic fashion celebration hosted more brands than ever before, including mainstays such as Ganni, Cecilie Bahnsen, Designers Remix and Baum und Pferdgarten presenting alongside rising stars such as Stand, Saks Potts and MUF10.
Ganni’s husband-wife duo Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup, celebrated a major milestone this season as they marked their 10-year journey. Drenched in a starking ‘70s vibe, their latest collection saw their memorable S/S ’15 collection, celebrating the brand’s archive and identity. Layering was at its best – with retro grandpa cardigan vests worn over shirts bearing gigantic collars and the label’s sought-after animal-print knee-high boots styled alongside slick co-ords.
The happy pill for the season was dispensed by Stine Goya, widely known for her uplifting and bright creations. The devil is in the details – from the garments to the set, vibrant hues of green, yellow, orange, pink and blue were everywhere. Neon fringing was suspended from the ceiling and over-the-top hand sculptures set the scene at the gymnasium where the show was staged.
Playful details such as jumbo-sized polka dots, ruffled mini dresses, vivacious florals, clashing colourways and mismatched neon tights, made for a very Alice in Wonderland vibe. Standing out from the crowd is a Goya attribute, and staying true to the same, this season saw the designer line up some of the most diverse models including members of international ballroom communities and women who were scouted via networking platform Bumble, who Goya partnered with.
Samsøe & Samsøe stood out by introducing swimwear and lingerie as daywear. In tandem with the Danish Modern design movement, the collection featured clean lines, high quality materials and functional details mixed with canny styling ideas. Layering was key with shirts, pants and dress pairings tied together by statement accessories such as mini pouches, beachy headwear and scarves wrapped around low buns, while heeled Western boots and mules completed the looks.
Henrik Vibskov’s tongue-in-cheek humour played around with fun motifs of lobsters, sardines and dancing couples. Statement making mixed-material platform heels featured wooden blocks and foam padding, which lent a comical feel to the collection. From a well-rounded presentation such as this, it can be tricky to decipher trends for the upcoming Spring/ Summer 2020 – and here is where AOI comes to the rescue! Read on to discover the top trends that emerged at Copenhagen Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020.
It is no surprise that most fashion trends are cyclical and the one making big waves this season are linear variations of the retro polka dots.
From dresses, to bralets, to tights, to cargo pants to wrap-around dresses, the sartorial specks are changing their monochrome aesthetic to reveal a new design dimension.
Classic black and white variations were experimented by Stine Goya, playing with sizes in a head-to-toe look, whilst Henrik Vibskov played with fabric manipulation wherein he lined the outline of his polkas. Saks Potts went for a coordinated look with a set of crop top and high waisted trousers tucked into contrasting cowboy boots for an edgy look.
Tone-on-tone got a new meaning with material-on-material detailing at Copenhagen Fashion Week. The runways were awash with designers and brands alike, playing daredevil with matching co-ord sets that had not only colours, but prints and materials in sync as well.
Amongst the popular pool of fabrications was slick vinyl which also served as a more sustainable choice against patent leather. Stand took it up a notch with a fierce snakeskin co-ord set layered over a striking leopard print turtle neck top whilst Henrik Vibskov tickled the funny bone with fun embroidered motifs including prints of lobsters, sardines and dancing couples paired atop each other.
Danish designers and high fashion labels alike, reinstated femininity with ruched detailing in their latest offerings. Shoulders extending onto sleeves and the bust area are the key points of focus, along with ruching extending all the way down the side over body-fit dresses.
Baum und Pferdgarten cleverly utilised the technique over flouncy sleeves by giving them statement status with ruching extending onto the collarbone area, whilst Ganni and Stine Goya let the technique stand out by incorporating it all-over going from the top to the bottom of figureflattering dresses.
Among one of the retail bestsellers of 2018, yellow tones have kept their commercial viability constant throughout 2019 and are now headed for a sustained success into Spring/Summer 2020.
The yellow palette, comprising of egg yolk yellow, sorbet yellow, primrose yellow and deeper mustard tones, has been spotted as a recurring shade across fashion capitals for the upcoming season. Spanning across the entire market – right from luxury to mass, in apparel, accessories and footwear – the sunny colour was designer’s favourite at Copenhagen, especially when it came to dresses.
The best ones were spotted at Rodebjer and Holzweiler.
Feathers, like fringes, are an interesting element of design to play around with, especially when it comes to apparel. With the ability to instantly amp up any outfit, these glamourous details lend a frisky character to designs.
A mainstay at couture collections this year, the Danish capital saw feathers being incorporated over ready-to-wear and everyday pieces. While similarity emerged in the kind of feathers being used, that is marabou feathers, the variations lay in the density and thickness of the strands of these feathers.
Cecilie Bahnsen went for all-over feathered looks over flouncy dresses whilst Malene Birger channelled the fray-away detail by incorporating it as a highlight over an all-black, knot detail ensemble.
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