Home keyboard_arrow_right Fashionkeyboard_arrow_right Trendskeyboard_arrow_right Feature

Asymmetry, Revisited Tailoring, Colour Splash et al: Highlights from NYFW 2019

by Shubhi Srivastava

24-September-2018  |  8 mins read

Image Courtesy: Voguerunway.com

New York being one of the trendiest fashion capitals of the world kicks off the major league of international fashion weeks on a bi-annual basis. It dictates the leaflets of the look-books and trend catalogues for the coming season, and introduces a plethora of design talents, whether old or new, to showcase path-breaking creations and looks.

For the Spring/Summer 2019 season, NYFW offered a creative exploration of silhouettes and forms saturated in deep and vibrant hues. Designers such as Marc Jacobs, with his dramatic candy sorbet fiesta; Christian Cowan, with his exemplified silhouettes and flirty play of sheer; Ralph Lauren, with his bespoke sportswear dripping in American heritage and culture; Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Moss, with his unique silhouettes and black celebratory prints and finally, Anna Sui, with her chic yet breezy prints extravaganza, are a few names to be kept on the radar for the upcoming season.

In the emerging talent space, CFDA’s 2017 inaugural Fashion Future Graduate Showcase saw three designers– menswear designers Jamall Osterholm and Daniel Cloke, and textile designer Ji Won Choi – present their debut collections on the New York runways. Jamall showcased the effective use of plastic as two of the looks from the designer’s 6-piece collection incorporated the use of bottles to create engineered body suits, whilst Ji Won tapped into his Korean heritage to depict a balanced collection evocative of Korean and American culture. Daniel used the platform to showcase innovation in the field of dyeing and fabrics, which he had spent the entire of last year exploring.

Trend-wise, New York Fashion Week saw a flirtatious play on the lines of symmetry, a comeback of vintage trends such as fringes, and the filing away of certain trends from their conventional attributes such as tailoring. The trend is being touted for the upcoming summer season as more fashion forward. Prints-wise, the timeless florals took a moody turn towards deep and bold tones, usually reserved for fall. Perhaps another nod towards the transitional nature of seasons?

Here is our edit of the trends that are set to affect the future of fashion for the upcoming Spring/Summer 2019 season…

Harmonious Asymmetry

Brock Collection, Gabriela Hearst, Kim Shui, Oscar De La Renta and Prabal Gurung

New York Fashion Week is known for its exploration of silhouettes. This season saw the trend treading on new territories with an army of asymmetrical garments lining up the ramps. Modifications ranged from the tiniest to the most exaggerated of ways.

Right from the hemlines to the top of the necklines, the collision of distinguished structures of the pieces created harmony while championing the techniques of draping, adding ruffles or the immaculate use of simple layering of contrasting fabrics. High-low hemlines defying symmetry along the frontal axis, exaggerated ruffles, necklines created using draping techniques were most common for this trend.

Suiting Revisited

Brandon Maxwell, Gabriela Hearst, Michael Kors and Sies Marjan

Bridging the work and play gap for clothing, strong tailored statements were a repeated sight on the runways for yet another season. The classic wardrobe assortment was offered in several revisited prints, styles, and unconventional colours, but what stood out the most were the modified pattern details.

Deconstructed and reimagined silhouettes were a part of the tailored offerings with altered design details such as hip cut-outs, jackets with wrap waist extensions, hybrids of the skirt-suit and pantsuits, wide waist cinchers, asymmetrical fronts and the best of the spring edit- the short suits that paired formal shorts and bikini tops with power-suits and straight-cut blazers.

Colour Coordinated

Brandon Maxwell, Coach, Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors

The pop of colour is a feat very commonly predicted for Spring 2019, but the trend was upheld to its maximum flare at NYFW as each piece of the ensemble from the clothes to bags and accessories like woven bucket bags and head bandanas were coordinated to perfection in the same tone.

Designers carefully curated the outfits to either make the result a pantone leaf of the same colour palette or give the same prints and textures throughout, going against the ongoing trend of colour-blocking and contrasts. The candy sorbet colour palette was on fire this season, placed gracefully over PVC jackets, ruffled dresses and flouncy gowns in tulle and feathers.

Versatility was kept alive by pairing different fabrics of varying textures like faux leather, knits, etc., all dipped in the same hues.

Tied with Crochet

Marc Jacobs, Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Michael Kors and M-Missoni

Keeping in line with the slow fashion trend while accomplishing the summer’s easy and breezy attribute, crochet was a recurring vision on the New York runways.

Penchant for the beach bae look, designers used crochet fabric of differently coloured yarns in different sizes to create body accentuating dresses, jumpsuits, tops and even hats and bags to honour the summer vibe. The ombre effect using different tones of the same colour was a common thread for this trend.

Denim Delirium

Coach, Nicole Miller, Coach, Michael Kors and Proenza Schouler

Denims with a twist are definitely in for Spring 2019 as rigorous research and development is going on for creating denim fabric using different materials and fibers while exploring new variations of washes that are fresh on the ramp. A strong resurgence of dark denim is also on the cards.

Models walked enveloped in a juxtaposition of differently-washed denim fabrics sewn together, knit denim athleisure pieces and even accessories and bags made out of denims to uphold the denim statement which is here to stay.

Fringe Frenzy

Brock Collection, Calvin Klein, Coach, Michael Kors and Oscar De La Renta

The ode to 80s makes a comeback every other season when an element from the era is utilized in novel ways to keep the vintage theme alive. This year, it was the hippie fringes that made a comeback as several fringes in different fabrics such as statement leather, breezy organza, sustainable jute fibers and even fine and lustrous satin.

Fringed hemlines, sleeves, and accessories like cinching belts, draped sashes etc are all set to join the racks of Spring 2019 fashion to add the extra flare to the otherwise straight silhouettes and striped prints.

Moody Florals, Dark Tropicals

Anna Sui, Calvin Klein, Michael Kors, Red-Valentino and Rodarte

Leaving behind the conventional character of being bright and colourful, florals and tropicals were revamped to address a more oriental influence for Spring 2019. Taking up a moody form with darker shades like black, maroon, and deeper shades of green and peacock blue, florals and lush leafy tropical motifs were paired with contrasting motifs such as geometrical patterns, circles, etc. and transformed the use of such prints from daywear to evening occasion wear.

These patterns were seen on contrasting palettes too as popping shades of yellow and pinks were set against fine-lines of darker counterparts or simply, the colour black.