Closing another season, Autumn Winter shipments are finally packed and will soon enough be found on the fashion racks of retailers worldwide, giving way to new orders, fresh samples and an innovative development process, for the summer of 2013. Unveiling the latest in buyer demands, seven companies with different buyer profiles and market positioning share with Apparel Online, the key features of their upcoming collections, and it was pleasant to notice that each one of them have a unique Indian element to offer in their designs, be it the patterns, motifs, embroideries or the use of traditional textiles.
Extracting a global essence of the season at large – Colours are bright, silhouettes are airy, loose and flared keeping comfort as the key, and fabrics have an evident light weight quality to them, the most famous demands being voile, weightless georgettes and the popular schiffli fabric. Shifting the focus from the waist which was a common focal point in the previous seasons, manufacturers are now experimenting with the necklines, and the concept of value additions has become minimal, being used only to highlight…
ANJURI NAGALIA, DESIGNER – WOMENSWEAR, SHAHI EXPORTS
“Concentrating the season’s energies on Denims in different kinds of washes and value adds, our aim is to experiment with a variety of techniques, in some pastels, bright colours and indigo…”
Sheer and lightweight fabrics such as polyester, weightless georgettes and voiles are some sought – after choices, along with lace fabrics for tops, bright plaids and checks, chambray, twills, heavy crepes restricted to pastel colours only and the use of dip dye technique and bead work to add value to denim.
Dealing with buyers like Abercrombie, American Eagle, UCB, M&S, Vero Moda, Only, H&M, Papaya and Falmer, the silhouettes are generally loose in boxy fits achieved through square patterns, bow shoulders and high-low hems, which are cropped from the front and are longer at the back.
Keeping the look folklore and Aztec inspired, there is a lot of bead work with big beads and acrylic beads, neon embroidery, heat setting, application of 3D studs and spikes to create a military look, use of stones and sequins. Digital printing on tops mainly consists of photographs directly printed onto the garment as realistic images and also of famous personalities. The new application is of the indigo dyed yarn, inserted while weaving, which bleeds while washing.
VANDANA GUPTA, SENIOR MERCHANDISER, RUPAYAN
“Creating an urban lifestyle for the woman of today, our collection takes its inspiration from South Africa, in a colour story that is well defined as the ‘Cape Caravan colours’…”
In a wide variety of womenswear garments, the concentration is mainly on the use of Indian fabrics such as Khadi, variations of Bhagalpuri silks like eerie and mulberry, linen and schiffli fabric commonly used for tops, bringing out the true essence of the tradtional Indian textiles.
Dealing with buyers like Mango, Kalan from Spain, Takisada, Nakayama and Ekiga from Japan and Nay Nay from France, there is a lot of creative play with the length and the sleeves, the key shapes include boxy fits, simple straight cuts and A-line in dresses along with a focus on puff sleeves.
Using skilled hand work as highlights on garments generally in bright colours, the techniques vary from couching, chikankari embroidery with a lot of work being done on the traditional adda.
Jamdani weaving is done to achieve a tone on tone effect in fabric along with the use of machine embroidery to bring down the cost.
RAJEEV GUPTA, GENERAL MANAGER, COLORS INDIA
“Keeping the season as basic as possible in ordinary cuts, our major focus is on camisoles, with an added twist of a drawstring on the waist to tighten the overall loose silhouettes…”
Playing with safe colours, the colour stories are generally of neutrals which include majorly blacks, and earthy tones including shades of beige and mustard.
Dealing with the European market, pouring in are orders for a lot of tie&dye variations in bright colours, which are enhanced with traditional techniques but keeping the design contemporary at the same time. Printing is restricted to contemporizing traditional prints, and other value additions involve minimal amount of adda work, sequins and beads.
ASHISH GARG, PROPRIETOR, AG FASHIONS
“Hitting the unstable economy, our demand is dominated by the factor of low prices, and therefore we are focusing on cheap and economical clothing, with only machine embroideries as value additions, if required…”
Working with markets like Europe, France, Germany, Italy and now Japan, the silhouettes are mostly flowy in loose fits for both casual wear and beach wear, there are also a lot of off-shoulder tops that are steadily gaining popularity across all buyers.
Once again playing safe, the colour palette includes whites, blacks, and shades of blue, apart from tie&dye in bright colours.
Simple fabrics such as cotton, chiffons, polyesters and viscose are used for a summary feel.
ARUNAV GOGOI, HEAD DESIGNER, MODELAMA EXPORTS
“The concept of engineered clothes is our key for S/S 2013, interpreted in shapes that are skilfully patterned, like T-bodies and spider bodies, and invisible seams…”
In products such as blouses, shirts, men’s shirts and dresses which are mostly casual and summer dresses, the colour story is largely of assorted bright and vibrant solid colours, with the use of neon’s and fluorescent shades as accents.
Working with buyers like diesel and Macy’s there are very less embellishments for the next season, the focuses largely remains on the necklines which are highlighted with minimal embroidery and 3D embellishments. Allover sequins is another popular demand that is being explored.
AVNEET ADWANI, DIRECTOR, THE CHOICE FASHIONS
“Creating a fresh set of prints, the season for us is playful where, apart from a lot of florals, we are also developing a range of novelty prints that are babyish in appeal using basic motifs such as apples and lipsticks…”
The use of lace fabrics in the form of chemical lace is a popular demand along with schiffli fabric for tops. Also being worked upon are modal and viscose largely in a colour story that consists of bright colours, a lot of yellows, lime, pinks and orange.
Developing variations in womenswear and kids wear, for buyers like Prada, New Look, Guess (US) and Ninewest, the key silhouettes consists of knee length tunics and dresses, and options of shorts and hot shorts in bright colours.
Sanjay Yadav, Proprietor, Rama Exports
“For SS 2013 we have indulged into a lot of high fashion clothing, with a huge focus on value additions in order to fetch a better price. Also, this season we will be showcasing only a collection of blues in our designs…”
Working with a number of buyers from USA and Canada, one of the biggest buyers is Jerry J Ahuja from Australia, looking for casual wear, blouses and coordinates with a variety of skirts.
Hiring a lot of adda artisans to enhance the collections, the techniques are restricted to hand crafted work, ranging from embroideries to highlight or even heavy embroideries on the neckline. The season will also be about all over sequins adding shimmer and hope to the overall feel of the garment.