To say it in a true Shakespearean style – ‘Details, however big or small, maketh a garment’. A man’s formal shirt without a neatly stitched collar, a well-placed placket and a crisp cuff on each side, would merely be a lifeless stretch of fabric. Ask any designer and they would say, beauty lies in the details and it is these creative and fine-tuned details that raise the class of any garment. Analyzing these functional and finishing categories of menswear ensembles which are becoming more and more relevant in fashion, Team FASHION FORWARD TRENDS puts together the most dominating trends in details for the season S/S 2014…
In the past few seasons, while most details have shifted towards imparting a sporty feel to both a casual and a formalwear style, we have also seen designers putting emphasis on innovating these garment details in terms of their lengths, styles and colours. While the buttoned up collar has become like a staple styling detail in global fashion, lengths are varying from long to short, with shorter lengths in outerwear pieces coming back in fashion for men. The hemlines for trousers are chopped, and further chopped higher, reaching halfway between the knee and the ankle. The shorts that were unbelievingly shorter last year, have in time become longer going below the knees. The sleeves although simple are varying in lengths again, becoming looser than ever. The placket, pockets and the panels are evidently in focus bringing further dimensions to the solid torsos.
Following our trend pages which bring out the best of directions in ‘details’, spotted on the Menswear S/S 2014 runways, the fashion team at Apparel Online went further ahead, talking to the design teams of Mossanite Apparels, Durga Impex, Rupayan, Lotus Apparel Designs, Aura Creations, M.L.K. Fashions, ITC Limited and Jubilant Retail, to know about what they are developing for the next summer. With insights on the kinds of trends in collars, cuffs, plackets, sleeves, hemlines and waists, put together are the most popular details by being demanded by different buyers in US, EU and Japan and also in Indian fashion retail…
The art of contrast always comes in handy for design. On the Spring 2014 runways for men, contrasting shirt collars were a definitive highlight coming forth in strong contrasting colours. Be it just the collar or the placket and collar as one, in a single contrasting colour, the detail was more than visible not only in button up shirts but also in T-shirts with a collar contrast like at Sacai and a blazer with a black lapel at Z Zegna. While the classic black was executed against gray and orange backgrounds at Man and John Galliano, white colour played well at Raf Simons, Ferragamo and Paul Smith rendered in pinks and greens.
An eccentric detailed incorporated while stitching the panels together, the use of piping for contrast stood out as an emphasizing detail on the runways. Subtle white pipelines gave outlines to jackets at Bottega Veneta and T by Alexander Wang, also used along the collar, lapels. While there were simple striations of black on a printed cowboy shirt at Topshop Unique, the unique one-sided striped piping at Victor and Rolf was a new way of adding asymmetric piping’s to a garment. Mostly used in solid colour garments, the technique is a perfect way of adding accent colours, and the elements of sports at the same time.
HALF AND HALF
We might have seen colour block in fashion in abundant variations, but this trendy detail is surely a pleasant one for us. Divided in striking half and halves, a two-coloured torso in contracting colours and prints was clear and seen at many catwalks. Gray with black on a blazer at Issey Miyake and with a teal blue on a shirt at Dior Homme distinctly demarcated the colour territory while the effect was achieved through a tessellated print on a two-tone shirt at Paul and Joe. The gradation of gray on a military jacket at Thom Brown signified different halves not only in colour but also the sexes.
The laidback lad ruled the runways of 2014 with his short suits, tracks, sweats and the recurring elbow sleeves. Conventionally what might appear to be a tailoring error, this loose extended length of sleeve was on a ubiquitous spree executed in slouch shirts, jackets and tees, becoming a noticeable trend for the upcoming seasons. The silhouette with traditional Grecian prints fell right into place with Dolce and Gabbana’s Milanese theme in woven torsos, and making their appearance in knits as well at the same time, the collection of Trussardi and Burberry Prorsum had elbow length sleeves T-shirts and summer sweaters.
Patchwork – a considerable ongoing trend in the last few seasons, found a subtler rendition in the menswear category focused around the pockets this time. In a rather restrained but pleasing application, patch pockets were implemented in the form of separate panels in most of the cases but stood out at John Galliano as separate entities looking like detachable zipper pouches. Junya Watanabe blocked solid coloured patches against patterns like stripes and checks in varying fabrics while Opening Ceremony used a multi-coloured geometric pattern of a pocket patch on a solid coloured tee. Patches of olive and black at Valentino and Lanvin were set against contrasting white shirts.
The prevalence of leather in the recent seasons has facilitated it to reserve its place successively in fashion seasons to come. The identity of leather no longer is synonymous with a mere leather jacket in the men’s wardrobe, but is now also used in details as the textile base was infused in smaller patches on pockets, plackets, lapels, collars, etc. A leather yoke appended as a separate panel was seen at Dior and Costume National alike whereas pockets made out of leather were executed at Valentino and Junya Watanabe. While most stuck to staid black and brown, the blue at Dior was a refreshing sight.
It’s common to see jackets with zipped openings, but a trend that was suddenly observed in variety was the use of zippers to replace the traditional buttons, even in categories like T-shirts, shirts and blazers. With most of the collections using the zipper as an opening detail, Armani replaced the buttons on his blazers with zippers, while Lanvin did the same with shirts. Being a sporty detail, the trend has certainly moved a notch higher than just being placed in sweatshirts, with even long jackets, and cardigans having been spotted with zippers. Mostly keeping the look simple in natural colours, even contrast coloured zippers can add that extra zing in garments in the coming seasons.
Another notable detail that took form along the necklines was of the raised collar, much like endless creative versions of the classic mandarin. Having a strong sportswear touch into it, the trend largely replaced the traditional collar on shirts, blazers and sweaters. Not only in woven, but also in knit and ribbed varieties, Bottega’s ribbed collar on a suede pullover was as classic as it was casual and minimal. Hermes opted for the style on a simple patterned sweater worn over a shirt and Iceberg on an elegant blue leather jacket. Vivienne Westwood gave her version an interesting take by the application of Indian work on the collar and the cuffs of a white shirt.