Glamour never fails to make a mighty appearance on the runways of Milan and Paris, apparent in the structures of avant-garde silhouettes and in the sheen of oxidized jacquards. From mid century romances to eerie fairytales to iconic folkloric tales, designers dived into a plethora of inspirations. So, while the medieval air brought with it full covered cloaks, dramatic necklines and razor sharp pleats, running parallel with it was a warrior like sensibility which boasted of heavy metal work, harness straps and caged bodices. As outerwear – in lacquered jacquards, knits and wool – became even more oversized resembling mystical capes, dark fairy tales could be deduced as the obvious subject of inspiration. Intricate beadwork on flared dresses together with whimsical appliqué – spanning from squirrels to oriental blooms – celebrated designers’ fascination for the surreal. Basking in a similar vibe, lurex knits imparted knitwear with a particularly perky demeanour, making the category even more exciting.
Knitting Capes
Following pre-fall’s mania of cape coats, designers have transcended to knits for constructing roomy throwovers with a visibly cosy demeanour. While the ones in flat knits have come across as sweater kimonos – in some cases, printed and in some, with thick cable knits – circular knits too make a promising appearance. Form-fitting pullovers with an attached shoulder trail or ponchos delivered in blanket fabric ending in tassels, the circular knit styles appeal for their lighter structure and contoured fit. Cardigans have also found a way with the trend as they have been constructed on the lines of long cape coats – with sleeves and droopy shoulders.
Out of Order
Leaving behind the plaids, houndstooth and floral versions of past seasons, geometry has finally shifted to first gear. Moving along the lines of optical illusion prints, such as Barberpoll, Café wall, Bezold effect, McCollogh effect and Visual tilt, designers created a collage, where some designers went for stripes, while others chose inverted triangles to make a striking appearance. The haphazard quality of these prints can be worked into silhouettes smartly enough to create shape illusions. While the runways stuck to monochromes, colours can altogether insinuate a new dimension too.
Coat in Action
Utility fashion seems to have made a strong point with safari silhouettes pressing upon the inclusion of functional elements in fashion. Straight-cut jackets, all-overs and even hybrid tunics have been laden with huge pockets à la safari jackets. Befitting the realms of not only travelling, the outerwear spreads its wings to possibilities of outdoor adventure – hiking, hunting, skiing, etc. as suggested by the clever execution of customized pockets on coats. The silhouettes derive inspiration from the urbane idea of adventure and the palette of greys, military greens, ink blues and slate grays translate the story rather well.
Winter Shine
Evening wear, gets its fair share as glamour is spelled not only through fancy silhouettes but through fabrics with an intrinsic celestial shine. Whether for the pared down holographic tulle skirt, worn under a grey knit sweater or peasant shirt dress constructed in beaded glass nylon, designers are quick to include a host of silhouettes to embrace the trend. Lurex yarn has been knitted and woven for a natural shine in garments; for glamorous sporty separates, chenille yarns have been combined with lurex to produce shiny knits, alternatively it has been woven with crepe for a pleated skirt.
Intricate Laser
Reserving a spot in the back row, laser cut maybe not immediately but definitely breathed fresh air into collections. Something out of a psychology laboratory, designers created their own versions of the Rorschach test, interpreting it in whatever they perceived and the next person conceiving it just as differently. From all-over cut-outs on dresses, revealing a layered fabric within to peek-a-boo cut-outs at random revealing nothing but skin, fabrics used varied from suede to leather to continuous appearances by felt.
