SGS, the Switzerland-based inspection, verification, testing and certification company in an endeavour to drive awareness about sustainability issues in the textile chain, hosted an Interactive Technical Session and Networking Dinner on ‘Product Safety & Sustainability Issues in Global Textiles Markets’, in Noida (Delhi-NCR).
In an interactive session with Team Apparel Online Dr. Karen Kyllo, Deputy VP Global Softlines, SGS USA, an internationally renowned expert on Product Safety, Performance and Sustainability in Textiles and a member of the AAFA Board of Directors, AATCC Board of Directors, and the Consumer Advisor on the US Cotton Board, shared her thoughts on some critical areas of concern to the industry as also future plans of SGS moving into 2015. Excerpts from the interview…
The current scenario of compliances…
The industry is passing through a phase which is complex particularly from the US point of view, because in Europe you have probably many more regulations in chemicals than the US but they pretty much come together under the EU and get unified. In the US, however, there are regulations on the Federal and the State level. And the way distribution systems are, segregation cannot be made at the distribution centre either. So every time a State makes a regulation it almost acts as a Federal regulation. At the same time, the social compliance movement has become buyer-driven and those days are past where regulations simply meant a signed document. Simultaneously, even the manufacturers have taken on the responsibility of being partners in change as a large proportion of the community now agrees that social compliance is a ‘given’, as compared to a decade ago.
Challenges posed…
Different State regulations have different requirements and we work towards putting all these together, not from just State to State, but country to country also to find a common ground for what is the least denomination. Further, sometimes countries and States require different methods. In such cases we work towards verifying how comparable these different methods are in order to provide a pragmatic approach to testing for our customers.
At the manufacturer’s end, while the awakening is certainly there, there isn’t enough education at the right level since not only the regulations are passed frequently, they aren’t the easiest to decipher either, as to every regulation there is an exemption, and to every exemption there is another exemption. Even as experts, we are always on our toe trying to be updated and passing on the same to our clients for timely action so that their business does not suffer.
SGS’s solution for today’s situation…
We work with our clients to set up a program which is going to be most efficient for them, based on the countries they are working with and the distribution channels henceforth. We are also working towards developing more programs that help push testing back into the supply chain, and garment manufacturers can buy a pre-certified snap or button or fabric. That way, the manufacturers of that component, who are better positioned to perform those tests, as they are producing in huge quantities and can have effective control over what happens during bulk production, pay to get the test done and not the garment manufacturers.
We also help manufacturers set benchmarks and conduct independent audits from time to time for the purpose of monitoring. Apart from this, we also offer fire safety training and worker safety as SGS has always offered a lot of opportunities in education. Our technical teams educate the buyers with what should be kept in mind while buying because new regulations keep coming up which may be open to nuances and interpretations.
We also act as advisors and encourage manufacturers to tell us about their business and share information, so that we can help them to set up the most efficient program. One needs to do line reviews and look at the product very closely before even deciding to put it in the line, with our experience and expertise we can advise companies on how to go about their business in the most competent way.
We have also trumped the conundrum of “what tested positive here, tested negative there” with our artificial ageing tests that can predict whether the sample submitted to us has enough components that might chemically alter their state to non-conformities during shipping.
SGS plans for the future
We shall continue to consolidate what services we already offer and hold regular interactions with the industry not only to educate them, but also to understand them…
The well attended Workshop…
Meanwhile, the technical seminar organized by SGS, one of the many endeavours by the company to support the industry in meeting the increasing challenges of the global markets, received good attendance.
At the seminar Dr. Karen Kyllo answered queries of more than 200 decision makers from export houses, buying agencies and liaison offices. “Today’s business atmosphere is extremely dynamic for the manufacturer as well as the buyer, and the US in particular is a tough market to navigate with different sets of regulations at the State and Federal level,” stated Kyllo.
SGS has been adeptly catering to the training needs of the various manufacturing hubs as well as partners. As buyers take on the responsibility of trying to make change happen, SGS has been offering solutions like benchmarking, independent audits and safety trainings.
“Will there be another fire? You never know! Our role is to ensure that workforce is aware of what to do under such circumstances,” concluded Kyllo.
