From a relatively cheap and affordable basic in our wardrobes to a steeply priced luxury, the legwear market has come a long way in the past few seasons. Made from the finest of yarns and embellished intricately to add the zing, it is the influential designer community which can be credited for this fashionable leap of change. Be it a pair of socks, stockings or patterned tights, the designer brands today are selling hosiery items at three-digit price tags. Closely following the trend are the high streets, mid market and mass market retailers, making fashion legwear more visible and attractive for the customer. While the upsurge in the legwear market is more than evident in 2014, if trend directions are any indication, then the next few years are even brighter for the category…
According to latest reports by the NPD Group, this past year, dollar sales of tights increased 12.2 per cent to US $ 775 million, while unit sales of tights grew 12.5 per cent to 108.5 million in the same period. Not just tights, but adding to the popularity is also men’s, women’s and children’s socks which generated a 3.1 per cent gain totalling US $ 5.34 billion in the past year. Today standing at a total of US $ 6.62 billion, the legwear and sock category has already started to show signs of gaining momentum into the current fall 2014 season worldwide, with more and more vendors expanding their winter collections. Responding to the movement, retailers are adding more colours, textures and patterns, in order to keep up with the pace of this rising demand for fashionable legwear.
It all started with the changing buying habits of fashionistas who find designer legwear such as that of Commes des Garçons and Marni an easy way to incorporate a runway look into their outfits at a reasonable price. Serving as an opportunity to buy designer products, but on a more affordable scale, customers are eager to buy such expensive and fashionable legwear to add the touch of ‘class’. Taking advantage of this need, Saint Laurent introduced its beaded ankle socks costing a toe-curling £ 340, Miuccia Prada teamed her feminine sportswear collection with leg warmers covered in jewels starting from £ 200 and London designer Simone Rocha matched a black silk drop-waist cocktail dress with calf-high 40 denier pop socks trimmed at the top with fake pearls. No wonder, many fashion analysts have stated that ‘legwear is now having its bona fide fashion moment’.
But while designers are using statement socks as a crucial styling essential, women are using socks to experiment with their style with a fine twist resulting in the ‘obsession’ spreading like a rage. With the increase of ‘fashionable elements’ in legwear, people can now easily mix and match their looks by changing their hosiery on different occasions as stylish accessories. From chunky ribbed sports socks, pop socks, patterned socks, silk socks to jewelled socks, everything is being tucked into anything from brogues to trainers to courts, boots and sandals.
Trends to watch out for…
Women are being more adventurous with their winter legwear than ever. As dresses and skirts become more popular even for the winter season, the need of legwear has also increased in order to keep the legs covered, but all in a fashionable way. Statement patterns, dramatic finishes and bold colours are almost mandatory to have for any closet. With menswear-inspired prints such as houndstooth, stripes and tweed predicted to be quite popular, even the faux leather looks are a hot demand. Additionally, sportswear-inspired leggings and embellished styles are projected to be on-trend as well. And as for the key colours for fall 2014 – magenta, crimson, burgundy, chalky white, mustard, grey, charcoal and blue are slated to be top choices, along with metallic and jewel shades.
Inspired by the likes of Michael Kors, Versace, Givenchy, Saint Laurent and Donna Karan – Invista, a leading producer of fibres and polymers which provides legwear brands with fibres and technologies, has also come up with its Legwear Innovation Fashion Directions collection for 2014-2015. Clearly stating that monochrome, animal prints, sports chic and romantic lace are in demand, the other key trend themes include Beauty Lab, a look which uses a minimalist palette with creative contouring to create constructive silhouettes; Do the Twist, which plays with geometric patterns; Raw and Wild, featuring animal prints and earthy tones; and Cabaret, a look inspired by the Cancan, featuring a vibrant palette, ruffles and ruches. Also present are Montmartre, inspired by the belle-époque spirit of Toulouse Lautrec’s Montmartre, with nostalgic decorations of ribbons and lace; Athletic Chic, which mixes geometrics, juxtaposed with sheers, daring slashes and open works; and Creative Energy, a trend which entertains one-off patterning and playful creativity connected to cutting-edge technology.
INDIA PERSPECTIVE
In line with increasing international demand for legwear, India has seen a huge jump in its exports of legwear in 2014 and in the seven months period from Jan.-July, the country saw increase of 33% in volume of exports and 16.45% rise in value of exports to the US. Exports to the European Union were even more impressive and in the first four months of 2014, exports in legwear to the EU increased substantially, while the quantities rose 34.59%, the values increased 37.89%. This is a good opportunity for manufacturers of legwear to consolidate their position in the international market. A few manufacturers in this category share what buyers are looking for…
Sourav Chandak, Proprietor, Robin Exports
“We manufacture leggings and over the last few seasons, buyers have been asking for fashionable ones, all throughout the year. The demand has already increased substantially, so I don’t anticipate a further ‘huge’ increase in demand, compared to what it is now. Printed ones are preferred to the plain ones, mostly in all over prints.”
Tarun Singh Bishnoi, CEO, Suchitra International Exim
“There is a noticeable increase in demand for legwear. We manufacture stockings in various patterns using hand-crochet; we also experiment with florals and other various designs. Instead of the usual black, we sell multi-coloured ones keeping young consumers in mind.”
Ashwani K. Gupta, Managing Director, Global Knitfab Ltd.
“No doubt, the demand for fashionable legwear has increased manifold in the last 5 years and this includes the Indian market also, as it suits the Indian dressing style very well. Leggings are an economical solution to add an extra zing to daily wear, office wear, casual and fashion alike. I feel the trend shall continue and its peak is yet to come. As for developments, online retail has given a quantum boost to leggings sale in the recent past. Leggings have always had a basic nature and that shall remain. However, seasonal fashions shall see colours changing with seasons. In India, designed leggings sell less as compared to basics; natural and cool yarns are likely to stay for a longer run.”
J. Srinivas, Merchandiser, E S Socks (P) Ltd.
“The demand for legwear has definitely increased from India and I think it will only escalate further. We manufacture stockings in cotton lycra. For our fashionable versions, we offer different jacquard patterns and the five colours that we sell are black, blue yellow, orange and red.”